FAQ
How does Venteurope ensure product quality?
We maintain strict quality control throughout our manufacturing process. Our products are certified to meet national and international standards, and we employ state-of-the-art production facilities with continuous testing. This commitment ensures the reliability and longevity of every fan and ventilation component we produce.
What material is the coating of the decorative panels made of?
PAGE, PAGL, PAGM – glass
PAM, PAT – metal
PQ, PA – ABS plastic
PAM, PAT – metal
PQ, PA – ABS plastic
Is there a warranty on the decorative panels? If so, what is it?
Yes, the warranty period is 2 years
I am interested in the metal quality of the PAM100/125 Chrome panel. Is it prone to corrosion?
The panel is made of stainless steel. This material has high corrosion resistance due to its significant chromium content, which forms a thin, protective oxide layer on the surface, shielding the metal from environmental damage.
However, corrosion can still occur under certain conditions, such as:
Contact with household chemicals containing chlorine, fluorine, or iodine.
Contact with calcareous substances found in finishing materials, concrete, or construction dust.
Damage to the protective oxide layer (e.g., by abrasive cleaning agents).
To prevent corrosion, it is important to avoid exposure to these harmful factors and to clean the product regularly using specialised cleaning agents.
However, corrosion can still occur under certain conditions, such as:
Contact with household chemicals containing chlorine, fluorine, or iodine.
Contact with calcareous substances found in finishing materials, concrete, or construction dust.
Damage to the protective oxide layer (e.g., by abrasive cleaning agents).
To prevent corrosion, it is important to avoid exposure to these harmful factors and to clean the product regularly using specialised cleaning agents.
There is a large amount of condensation in the valve. What is the cause and how can I fix it?
Possible causes of condensation:
Errors in the design or installation of the ventilation system
High humidity inside the rooms
Proximity to bodies of water
Large temperature difference between indoors and outdoors
The supply valve is part of a supply‑and‑exhaust ventilation system – supply and exhaust are interdependent and do not work properly without each other. Therefore, the problem is usually either insufficient air supply (too few valves), inadequate air exhaust, or (less commonly) excessive forced humidification.
How to fix it:
Restore exhaust ventilation – ensure constant, sufficient draft. Clear any blockages from exhaust openings in the kitchen and bathrooms. Install an exhaust fan if natural draft is insufficient.
Maintain free air flow between the window with the supply valve and the exhaust openings. Doors should not close too tightly.
Follow the recommended number of valves – as calculated by a ventilation specialist based on the floor area and the number of occupants.
Errors in the design or installation of the ventilation system
High humidity inside the rooms
Proximity to bodies of water
Large temperature difference between indoors and outdoors
The supply valve is part of a supply‑and‑exhaust ventilation system – supply and exhaust are interdependent and do not work properly without each other. Therefore, the problem is usually either insufficient air supply (too few valves), inadequate air exhaust, or (less commonly) excessive forced humidification.
How to fix it:
Restore exhaust ventilation – ensure constant, sufficient draft. Clear any blockages from exhaust openings in the kitchen and bathrooms. Install an exhaust fan if natural draft is insufficient.
Maintain free air flow between the window with the supply valve and the exhaust openings. Doors should not close too tightly.
Follow the recommended number of valves – as calculated by a ventilation specialist based on the floor area and the number of occupants.
How often does the valve need maintenance and the filter need to be changed?
Every three months: clean the filter. To do this, unscrew the anemostat diffuser, remove the filter, and rinse it with water (for KR KIV and KP series).
Every six months: use a vacuum cleaner to clean the duct inside the wall.
Once a year: clean the external grille of large debris.
Every six months: use a vacuum cleaner to clean the duct inside the wall.
Once a year: clean the external grille of large debris.
Can the supply air valve be installed higher than 3 metres?
The supply air valve is recommended to be installed at a height of 2–2.5 metres from the floor. This ensures optimal air circulation and ease of adjustment (e.g., using a handle or a pull cord).
If the valve is installed at a height of 3 metres or higher:
Adjustment becomes more difficult, especially if no extension cord or special control cord is provided (these are either included with the valve or available separately).
Air distribution may be affected, potentially reducing ventilation efficiency, especially if the valve is located far from the occupied zone of the room.
From a technical standpoint, installation above 3 metres is possible, but for ease of operation and maintenance, a lower mounting height is recommended.
If the valve is installed at a height of 3 metres or higher:
Adjustment becomes more difficult, especially if no extension cord or special control cord is provided (these are either included with the valve or available separately).
Air distribution may be affected, potentially reducing ventilation efficiency, especially if the valve is located far from the occupied zone of the room.
From a technical standpoint, installation above 3 metres is possible, but for ease of operation and maintenance, a lower mounting height is recommended.
Do I need to close the opening or insulate the valve in winter?
The supply air valve is covered on the outside by a wall outlet (depending on the model) and on the inside by an adjustable damper. No additional insulation is required in winter.
Can the supply air valve be used as an exhaust valve?
No, a supply air valve cannot be used as an exhaust valve. This device is designed to bring fresh air into a room, not to remove stale air.
Will it get cold from the valve in winter?
No. The design of the valve and the materials of its housing provide a thermal break. Cold air enters the room in small portions and immediately mixes with the warm indoor air. No significant temperature drop in the room occurs.
Is there any noise from the operation of the supply valve?
The valves are equipped with thermal and acoustic insulation that minimises noise. The noise level typically does not exceed comfortable values.
Can the volume of supply air be adjusted?
Yes, the valves are equipped with an adjustable damper that allows you to smoothly change the amount of incoming air, either manually or by using a cord.
What types of filters are used in the supply air valves?
The valves use G3 (EU3) class filters, which provide air purification from dust and fine particles.
What is the length of the insulation in the KIV supply valve?
For a 1 m long duct, the KIV valve comes with 400 mm of insulation. For a 0.5 m long duct, it comes with 300 mm of insulation.
The insulation in the KIV supply valve does not cover the entire duct length for several reasons related to the product's design and functionality:
Effective insulation where it is most needed – the insulation is placed along the part of the duct that passes through the wall or the outer layer, to minimise heat loss and prevent freezing in that critical section. The inner part of the duct, located inside the room, is less insulated or not insulated at all because temperatures there are more stable.
Installation and adjustment features – the valve design includes an adjustable damper and a control mechanism on the inner end of the duct. Insulation in that area could interfere with operation or make access for adjustment difficult. Therefore, insulation is not applied over the entire length to preserve ease of use and maintenance.
Reduced weight and cost – insulating the entire length would increase the valve's weight and cost without significantly improving its thermal performance. The manufacturer therefore limits insulation to the most critical zone.
Thus, the insulation in the KIV valve is intentionally placed not over the whole duct length, but only where it is truly needed – to prevent freezing and reduce noise – providing an optimal balance between effectiveness and ease of use.
The insulation in the KIV supply valve does not cover the entire duct length for several reasons related to the product's design and functionality:
Effective insulation where it is most needed – the insulation is placed along the part of the duct that passes through the wall or the outer layer, to minimise heat loss and prevent freezing in that critical section. The inner part of the duct, located inside the room, is less insulated or not insulated at all because temperatures there are more stable.
Installation and adjustment features – the valve design includes an adjustable damper and a control mechanism on the inner end of the duct. Insulation in that area could interfere with operation or make access for adjustment difficult. Therefore, insulation is not applied over the entire length to preserve ease of use and maintenance.
Reduced weight and cost – insulating the entire length would increase the valve's weight and cost without significantly improving its thermal performance. The manufacturer therefore limits insulation to the most critical zone.
Thus, the insulation in the KIV valve is intentionally placed not over the whole duct length, but only where it is truly needed – to prevent freezing and reduce noise – providing an optimal balance between effectiveness and ease of use.
How often does the grille need maintenance?
Ventilation grilles should be cleaned when they become dirty. A good guideline depends on the operating environment:
Bathroom – inspect every 3–6 months, clean when dust builds up.
Kitchen – more often: every 1–3 months, because greasy dust accumulates faster.
Outdoors – seasonally: in spring and autumn, remove insects and leaves.
Signs that cleaning is needed: visible buildup, reduced airflow, unusual noise.
Regular maintenance helps maintain the efficiency of the ventilation system and improves air quality.
Bathroom – inspect every 3–6 months, clean when dust builds up.
Kitchen – more often: every 1–3 months, because greasy dust accumulates faster.
Outdoors – seasonally: in spring and autumn, remove insects and leaves.
Signs that cleaning is needed: visible buildup, reduced airflow, unusual noise.
Regular maintenance helps maintain the efficiency of the ventilation system and improves air quality.
How should I install your grille (what fastening method should I use)?
For installing our ventilation grilles, one of the following methods is typically used:
Self‑tapping screws – suitable for wooden, metal, or concrete surfaces. They provide a secure and durable fixing. It is recommended to pre‑drill holes in the plastic (if not already present) to prevent cracking. Do not overtighten, as this may crack the frame.
Adhesive – suitable for lightweight grilles on smooth surfaces (e.g., drywall, tiles). It provides an invisible fixing without holes, but is less secure and more difficult to remove. Before application, degrease the surface, apply the adhesive in spots around the perimeter, and press the grille firmly for 30–60 seconds.
The choice of method depends on the surface type, the size of the grille, and the operating conditions. Always work carefully to avoid damaging the product and to ensure an airtight fit.
Self‑tapping screws – suitable for wooden, metal, or concrete surfaces. They provide a secure and durable fixing. It is recommended to pre‑drill holes in the plastic (if not already present) to prevent cracking. Do not overtighten, as this may crack the frame.
Adhesive – suitable for lightweight grilles on smooth surfaces (e.g., drywall, tiles). It provides an invisible fixing without holes, but is less secure and more difficult to remove. Before application, degrease the surface, apply the adhesive in spots around the perimeter, and press the grille firmly for 30–60 seconds.
The choice of method depends on the surface type, the size of the grille, and the operating conditions. Always work carefully to avoid damaging the product and to ensure an airtight fit.
How do I remove the hinge from a plastic grille?
To remove a hinge or hanging loop from a plastic ventilation grille, simply snap it off carefully. If it does not snap off easily, you can carefully cut it off with a sharp tool such as a utility knife.
Do this gently to avoid damaging the grille or causing injury. For convenience and safety, place the grille on a stable surface and use smooth, controlled movements. This care will help preserve the integrity of the product and extend its service life.
Do this gently to avoid damaging the grille or causing injury. For convenience and safety, place the grille on a stable surface and use smooth, controlled movements. This care will help preserve the integrity of the product and extend its service life.
Which way should the louvers be oriented when installing the grille?
The general principle is simple:
External grille – point the louvers downward to prevent rain and debris from entering.
Internal installation – the louvers serve a decorative function and should be oriented so that the ventilation duct is not visible:
If the duct is above eye level → point the louvers upward.
If the duct is below eye level → point the louvers downward.
This effectively hides the ventilation shaft from direct view while maintaining good air circulation.
If the grille has a non‑return valve or an adjustable feature, make sure the blades do not pinch them and that free access to the adjustment mechanism is preserved.
External grille – point the louvers downward to prevent rain and debris from entering.
Internal installation – the louvers serve a decorative function and should be oriented so that the ventilation duct is not visible:
If the duct is above eye level → point the louvers upward.
If the duct is below eye level → point the louvers downward.
This effectively hides the ventilation shaft from direct view while maintaining good air circulation.
If the grille has a non‑return valve or an adjustable feature, make sure the blades do not pinch them and that free access to the adjustment mechanism is preserved.
Where can I get a product passport / data sheet for the grille?
There is no separate "passport" for a grille – it is a component part of a ventilation system.
What we provide instead of a passport:
Product card with specifications (dimensions, material, weight, application)
Markings on the packaging
Upon request – certificates of conformity or declarations for supply contracts and construction projects
For design and cost estimation documentation, this information is usually sufficient.
What we provide instead of a passport:
Product card with specifications (dimensions, material, weight, application)
Markings on the packaging
Upon request – certificates of conformity or declarations for supply contracts and construction projects
For design and cost estimation documentation, this information is usually sufficient.
How do I determine the airflow capacity of a grille?
The airflow capacity of a ventilation grille depends on its free area (the total open area through which air can pass) and the airflow velocity. The larger the free area and the higher the air velocity, the more air the grille can handle. For each model, this value is calculated and provided in the specifications on our website.
If you need to determine the airflow capacity yourself, use the following formula:
L = V × F × K × 3600
Where:
L – grille airflow capacity (m³/h)
V – air velocity (m/s)
F – total face area of the grille (m²)
K – free area coefficient (proportion of open area)
Recommended air velocities for different duct types (for reference):
Main duct in an industrial facility: 8–12 m/s
Main duct in a non‑industrial (civil) building: up to 6 m/s
Branch duct from the main line: 4–5 m/s
Distribution duct leading to a grille or diffuser: 1.5–2 m/s
This approach allows you to correctly calculate and select a grille for efficient ventilation system performance.
If you need to determine the airflow capacity yourself, use the following formula:
L = V × F × K × 3600
Where:
L – grille airflow capacity (m³/h)
V – air velocity (m/s)
F – total face area of the grille (m²)
K – free area coefficient (proportion of open area)
Recommended air velocities for different duct types (for reference):
Main duct in an industrial facility: 8–12 m/s
Main duct in a non‑industrial (civil) building: up to 6 m/s
Branch duct from the main line: 4–5 m/s
Distribution duct leading to a grille or diffuser: 1.5–2 m/s
This approach allows you to correctly calculate and select a grille for efficient ventilation system performance.
What is the free area coefficient of the grille?
The free area coefficient is the proportion of the grille's open area through which air can pass.
Simple formula:
Free area coefficient = (Total open area of all apertures ÷ Total face area of the grille) × 100%
Where to find it: In the "Specifications" section of the specific model on our website or in the catalogue. The value depends on the shape of the blades, their spacing, and whether an insect screen is present.
Simple formula:
Free area coefficient = (Total open area of all apertures ÷ Total face area of the grille) × 100%
Where to find it: In the "Specifications" section of the specific model on our website or in the catalogue. The value depends on the shape of the blades, their spacing, and whether an insect screen is present.
How do I find the dimensions of a grille?
The easiest way is to check the "Specifications" section in the product card on our website or in the catalogue. There you will find:
Overall face dimensions (W×H) – what you see on the wall.
Installation (duct) size – the diameter or side length of the duct into which the grille is inserted.
Center‑to‑center distance for mounting holes (if applicable).
If you already have the grille in hand, check the packaging or label. Otherwise, measure with a tape measure:
The external dimensions of the grille – to see if it will cover the opening.
The ventilation duct opening – to choose a grille with a matching installation size.
Overall face dimensions (W×H) – what you see on the wall.
Installation (duct) size – the diameter or side length of the duct into which the grille is inserted.
Center‑to‑center distance for mounting holes (if applicable).
If you already have the grille in hand, check the packaging or label. Otherwise, measure with a tape measure:
The external dimensions of the grille – to see if it will cover the opening.
The ventilation duct opening – to choose a grille with a matching installation size.
If the natural-draft deflector (cowl) becomes jammed, iced over, or rusted, will there be no natural draft in the duct?
A frozen or jammed turbine becomes a mechanical obstacle. Not only does it fail to assist the draft, but it physically blocks part of the duct's cross-section, creating additional aerodynamic resistance.
Can the deflector (cowl) work when there is no wind?
Yes, the deflector does its job even in completely calm conditions, but the operating principle changes.
When wind is present: The deflector actively enhances draft. It uses the wind's energy to create a low‑pressure zone (suction) at the top of the pipe, pulling air from the room upward and out more effectively.
When there is no wind (calm): The deflector continues to work, but in a passive mode. It does not hinder the natural draft that occurs due to temperature and density differences between the indoor and outdoor air. At the same time, it still performs its other important function: protecting the duct from rain, snow, and debris.
When wind is present: The deflector actively enhances draft. It uses the wind's energy to create a low‑pressure zone (suction) at the top of the pipe, pulling air from the room upward and out more effectively.
When there is no wind (calm): The deflector continues to work, but in a passive mode. It does not hinder the natural draft that occurs due to temperature and density differences between the indoor and outdoor air. At the same time, it still performs its other important function: protecting the duct from rain, snow, and debris.
How do I choose the right size deflector (cowl)?
To choose the correct size, you need to know one key parameter: the deflector is selected based on the outer diameter of your ventilation pipe (duct). For example, if your pipe has an outer diameter of 125 mm, you need a deflector for 125 mm.
Step‑by‑step instructions:
Measure the outer diameter of the pipe – use a calliper or a tape measure. For a round pipe, measure the diameter; for a square pipe, measure the side length. Important: measure the outer diameter, not the inner one.
Choose a deflector with the same connection size – the model name always indicates the diameter it is designed for.
For square or rectangular ducts, use a square‑to‑round adapter, then attach a deflector of the required diameter.
What happens if you choose the wrong size?
Deflector too small – you won’t be able to install it.
Deflector too large – it will not fit tightly on the pipe; you will need extra seals, and the assembly may be unstable in wind.
Step‑by‑step instructions:
Measure the outer diameter of the pipe – use a calliper or a tape measure. For a round pipe, measure the diameter; for a square pipe, measure the side length. Important: measure the outer diameter, not the inner one.
Choose a deflector with the same connection size – the model name always indicates the diameter it is designed for.
For square or rectangular ducts, use a square‑to‑round adapter, then attach a deflector of the required diameter.
What happens if you choose the wrong size?
Deflector too small – you won’t be able to install it.
Deflector too large – it will not fit tightly on the pipe; you will need extra seals, and the assembly may be unstable in wind.
Can the deflector (cowl) be installed on a heating stove chimney pipe?
Our deflectors are designed exclusively for general ventilation systems that extract stale air from rooms such as kitchens and bathrooms.
Temperature range: During stove operation, flue gas temperatures range from 200°C to 500°C and higher. A plastic deflector would melt and catch fire. A metal deflector not designed for such temperatures can warp, suffer coating damage, and experience accelerated corrosion, leading to failure and loss of seal integrity.
Safety (the main reason): A chimney is a high‑fire‑risk system. Installing an accessory not intended for it can lead to:
Fire of the deflector and the roof itself.
Disrupted draft, causing carbon monoxide (CO) to enter the room – which is lethal.
Design mismatch: Ventilation deflectors do not account for the specific behaviour of condensate and soot that occur in chimneys.
Temperature range: During stove operation, flue gas temperatures range from 200°C to 500°C and higher. A plastic deflector would melt and catch fire. A metal deflector not designed for such temperatures can warp, suffer coating damage, and experience accelerated corrosion, leading to failure and loss of seal integrity.
Safety (the main reason): A chimney is a high‑fire‑risk system. Installing an accessory not intended for it can lead to:
Fire of the deflector and the roof itself.
Disrupted draft, causing carbon monoxide (CO) to enter the room – which is lethal.
Design mismatch: Ventilation deflectors do not account for the specific behaviour of condensate and soot that occur in chimneys.
Which deflector (cowl) is suitable for a barbecue / grill room?
Our deflectors are designed exclusively for general ventilation systems that remove stale air from indoor spaces. For ventilating a barbecue / grill room, the correct choice of equipment should be based on an assessment of the space by a ventilation designer, who will analyse all necessary system characteristics. Based on the technical requirements and the specific features of the project, we can then recommend the most suitable deflector model.
What tasks does a deflector (ventilation cowl) solve?
A deflector is used to make natural ventilation in your home more effective and reliable. It performs three main functions:
Improves exhaust by harnessing wind power, even when the natural draft in the duct is weak.
Protects the duct from rain, snow, and debris.
Stabilises operation by preventing wind from forcing air back into the room.
It is a simple, electricity‑free solution for comfortable air exchange.
Improves exhaust by harnessing wind power, even when the natural draft in the duct is weak.
Protects the duct from rain, snow, and debris.
Stabilises operation by preventing wind from forcing air back into the room.
It is a simple, electricity‑free solution for comfortable air exchange.
What is a tee used for in ventilation?
A tee is used when you need to split or join two air flows within a single main duct. For example, a single pipe runs from a central fan, and you need two branches in a room — one to the bedroom and one to the living room. Conversely, air from two rooms can be brought together into a common exhaust duct. The tee allows branching without losing airtightness and with minimal pressure loss.
How do I select the correct reducer?
ou need to know the exact dimensions of both air ducts you are connecting. The reducer’s name typically includes both sizes.
What is a reducer and what is it used for in ventilation?
A reducer is a shaped component designed for the smooth connection of air ducts with different cross-sections.
Is it possible to replace or order additional components for the access panel?
Spare parts for the access panels are not available for individual purchase. Replacement may be possible under the terms of the warranty.
How do I correctly install an access panel (inspection hatch)?
Proper installation of an access panel involves the following key steps:
Prepare the opening in the wall or ceiling. Its size must match the flange dimensions of the panel exactly.
Place the panel into the opening and secure it using screws or other fasteners, depending on the design. For concealed or flush‑mount panels, follow the installation instructions.
Adjust the frame and door as necessary to ensure a tight, even fit.
Check operation – the door should open and close easily and sit flush against the frame without gaps.
For push‑to‑open panels, a light press on the corners of the door is enough to open it. For ceiling installations, choose models with latches or locks to prevent accidental opening.
For plastic flange‑type panels, the door can often be removed for easier installation or access.
Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for installation and use, as provided in the technical documentation. This approach ensures a secure fit, durability, and convenient operation of the access panel.
Prepare the opening in the wall or ceiling. Its size must match the flange dimensions of the panel exactly.
Place the panel into the opening and secure it using screws or other fasteners, depending on the design. For concealed or flush‑mount panels, follow the installation instructions.
Adjust the frame and door as necessary to ensure a tight, even fit.
Check operation – the door should open and close easily and sit flush against the frame without gaps.
For push‑to‑open panels, a light press on the corners of the door is enough to open it. For ceiling installations, choose models with latches or locks to prevent accidental opening.
For plastic flange‑type panels, the door can often be removed for easier installation or access.
Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for installation and use, as provided in the technical documentation. This approach ensures a secure fit, durability, and convenient operation of the access panel.
How do I choose an inspection hatch?
When selecting an inspection hatche, consider the following key criteria:
Opening and panel size – the panel must exactly match the size of the service opening to ensure convenient access and secure mounting.
Material – plastic panels are lighter and more moisture-resistant; metal panels are stronger and more durable, suitable for high-traffic areas.
Opening type – hinged (opens like a door) or removable (the door is completely taken off); choice depends on installation conditions and ease of maintenance.
Compatibility with finishing materials – for concealed inspection hatches, accurate door dimensions are critical to match the facing material. Tile overhang beyond the door edge should not exceed one‑third of the tile’s width or length.
Presence of seals and reliable locks – for airtightness and safety.
Panel weight – consider the wall material to ensure secure fixing.
Ease of installation and operation – the panel should open easily and provide access to utilities.
These criteria will help you select an access panel that best suits your functional needs and installation conditions.
Opening and panel size – the panel must exactly match the size of the service opening to ensure convenient access and secure mounting.
Material – plastic panels are lighter and more moisture-resistant; metal panels are stronger and more durable, suitable for high-traffic areas.
Opening type – hinged (opens like a door) or removable (the door is completely taken off); choice depends on installation conditions and ease of maintenance.
Compatibility with finishing materials – for concealed inspection hatches, accurate door dimensions are critical to match the facing material. Tile overhang beyond the door edge should not exceed one‑third of the tile’s width or length.
Presence of seals and reliable locks – for airtightness and safety.
Panel weight – consider the wall material to ensure secure fixing.
Ease of installation and operation – the panel should open easily and provide access to utilities.
These criteria will help you select an access panel that best suits your functional needs and installation conditions.
Which bracket provides the most secure fastening for a round air duct?
The DKP (round) bracket provides rigid fixation around the entire circumference. The RDH bracket secures the duct at a single point but, thanks to its flexible design, compensates for vibrations. The choice depends on the system requirements: RDH is suitable for standard systems, while DKP may be preferable for systems with higher vibration levels.
Can the brackets be used to fasten flexible ducts?
Yes, RDH series brackets are best suited for fastening flexible ducts, as their flexible design allows the duct to be securely held without pinching or damaging the corrugation.
What is the key difference between the LRDH bracket and the others?
The LRDH bracket features a convenient snap-lock that allows you to quickly secure a rectangular air duct without additional tools, speeding up installation.
Can these brackets be used in systems with different duct cross-sections?
Yes, the bracket series includes options for both round and rectangular air ducts in various sizes.
What materials are used to make the brackets?
The brackets are made of durable plastic that is resistant to environmental influences.
Are the brackets suitable for mounting on walls and ceilings?
Yes, all brackets are designed for attachment to walls, ceilings, and other mounting surfaces.
What distance should be maintained between brackets?
The recommended spacing is 1.5–2 metres on straight sections. Additional brackets must be installed before and after bends, tees, or heavy equipment such as fans.
Plastic seems unreliable. Why not use metal?
For this specific application, plastic is the optimal material. The F‑series flange operates in environments where metal would be prone to corrosion. Plastic does not rust, requires no painting, and does not lose its shape over time. At the same time, it is rigid enough to securely hold the air distributor in place.
How is this flange different from a standard adapter?
A standard adapter simply changes the pipe diameter. The F‑series flange solves a different task: it is designed to connect air distributors (grilles, diffusers) that do not have their own flange to a round air duct. It features a flat mounting surface to which the distributor itself is attached. So it is not just a transition piece, but a complete unit for joining a pipe and a grille.
Why is it called a worm-drive clamp?
The clamp is called "worm-drive" because its tightening mechanism is based on a worm drive. This mechanism consists of a metal band with rolled teeth (threads) and a screw — the worm. When the screw is turned, the band moves linearly relative to the housing, tightening or loosening the clamp. This mechanism provides reliable and precise adjustment of the clamping force, making worm-drive clamps a versatile and effective fastening solution for pipes, hoses, and air ducts.
What purposes can the clamp be used for?
he stainless steel worm-drive clamp is used for fastening and securing round ventilation system components, including aluminium flexible ducts, rubber hoses, and couplings. Made of stainless steel, it offers high corrosion resistance and durability even in conditions of high humidity or aggressive environments.
It is widely used in both industrial and residential ventilation systems to provide a reliable and airtight connection of ducts and hoses, preventing displacement and ensuring structural stability.
It is widely used in both industrial and residential ventilation systems to provide a reliable and airtight connection of ducts and hoses, preventing displacement and ensuring structural stability.
What is the difference between LMA and LMT tapes?
LMT mounting tape (50 mm, 160 µm, 30 m, plastic): Made of geotextile coated with polyethylene and an adhesive surface. Its 160 µm thickness provides good strength and elasticity. It is used for sealing ventilation systems and is well suited for uneven surfaces and flexible connections.
LMA mounting tape (50 mm, reinforced, 120 µm, aluminium): A reinforced aluminium tape with a strong multi-layer construction and a thickness of 120 µm. It offers enhanced strength, resistance to mechanical damage, and high heat resistance, making it ideal for sealing air ducts in demanding conditions.
Thus, the choice depends on the required strength, elasticity, and operating conditions of the ventilation system.
LMA mounting tape (50 mm, reinforced, 120 µm, aluminium): A reinforced aluminium tape with a strong multi-layer construction and a thickness of 120 µm. It offers enhanced strength, resistance to mechanical damage, and high heat resistance, making it ideal for sealing air ducts in demanding conditions.
Thus, the choice depends on the required strength, elasticity, and operating conditions of the ventilation system.
Where should the tape be used?
The tape is designed for sealing and protecting joints and connections in ventilation systems. The material is geotextile coated with polyethylene, featuring an adhesive surface that provides a reliable and durable seal. The tape is used to prevent air loss, the ingress of dust and moisture, and to protect air ducts and ventilation system components from external influences.
This tape is suitable for both residential and industrial ventilation systems, providing an effective and long-lasting airtight seal.
This tape is suitable for both residential and industrial ventilation systems, providing an effective and long-lasting airtight seal.
Where should the tape be used?
The best applications for LMA reinforced tape include sealing and insulating joints and connections in ventilation systems and air ducts. Thanks to its polyester mesh reinforcement and multi-layer construction (aluminium foil with a fabric and kraft paper backing), this tape offers high strength and heat resistance. It reliably prevents air leakage, protects the system from dust and moisture, and is suitable for use in conditions of elevated temperature and humidity.
This tape is ideal for fastening and sealing metal and plastic air ducts, shaped ventilation components, as well as for repair and installation work in residential, commercial, and industrial premises.
This tape is ideal for fastening and sealing metal and plastic air ducts, shaped ventilation components, as well as for repair and installation work in residential, commercial, and industrial premises.
Where should the tape be used?
The tape is intended for sealing ventilation systems. It is made of aluminium foil with a thermal adhesive layer, which provides a reliable and durable seal for connections and joints of air ducts and shaped components. The tape is resistant to high and low temperatures and protects the ventilation system from air loss, dust, and dirt.
What is the mounting tape used for?
Mounting tape is designed to seal the joints of ventilation systems, air ducts, and shaped components. It provides a reliable seal at connections, preventing air loss and keeping dust and dirt from entering the system. The tape is made of PVC, ensuring moisture resistance and long service life. Its width of 50 mm and length of 10 m make it convenient for various ventilation installation tasks.
How often should the mesh and the non-return valve be cleaned?
It is recommended to perform a visual inspection and clean off dust, lint, and other debris at least once or twice a year. In environments with high levels of pollution, cleaning should be carried out more frequently
Can the wall outlets be used on the building facade?
Yes, thanks to the durable materials used, the product maintains its appearance and functionality when installed outdoors.
How do I remove the external part for installation?
VM – The external part of the outlet is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. To install, carefully unscrew these screws to remove the cover with the insect screen and condensate collector. We recommend keeping the fasteners safe for later reinstallation.
KFV – The outlet consists of two parts, which simplifies installation and maintenance. First, remove the front part by carefully pressing the plastic clips on the front panel – the panel will then come off. After that, dismantle the flange.
KFV – The outlet consists of two parts, which simplifies installation and maintenance. First, remove the front part by carefully pressing the plastic clips on the front panel – the panel will then come off. After that, dismantle the flange.
Is there a reverse function for airflow direction or a way to change the position of the louvers?
No, it is not provided.
How do I choose the correct diameter?
The diameter of the wall outlet must match the diameter of your ventilation duct or the air duct that will be connected to it.
What is the main difference between the VM and KFV wall outlets?
VM: Features an integrated insect screen and a condensate collector. It protects against debris, insects, and precipitation. It does not have a non-return valve.
KFV: Equipped with a gravity-operated non-return valve (a "flapper") that prevents backdraft and the entry of cold air into the system.
KFV: Equipped with a gravity-operated non-return valve (a "flapper") that prevents backdraft and the entry of cold air into the system.
What is the ventilation principle of these wall outlets?
Supply and exhaust.
What are the wall outlets made of?
VM series – stainless steel
KFV series – ASA plastic
KFV series – ASA plastic
What size should the opening in the wall be for installing the end plate?
Use the installation size (mounting cross-section) given in the product specifications as your guide. For round end plates, this is the diameter of the spigot; for rectangular ones, it is the width and height. The opening should be slightly larger than the installation size so that the spigot fits freely, but without excessive gaps. The external dimensions of the end plate are always larger to cover the opening completely
Will the end plate fit if I have an uneven wall?
Yes, plastic end plates are flexible and can adapt to uneven walls, compensating for slight irregularities in the surface.
Is mounting hardware included in the kit?
Mounting hardware is not included in the standard kit, as the type of fasteners required depends on the wall material (concrete, brick, drywall, etc.). We recommend purchasing the appropriate fasteners separately based on your specific installation conditions.
What is an end cap and what is it used for?
An end cap is designed to provide a decorative finish to the end of a ventilation duct. It serves to connect round or rectangular air ducts, conceals the mounting opening, and gives the ventilation system a finished appearance.
What material are the diffusers made of and what are their advantages?
The DK diffuser is made of plastic. Its advantages include low weight, moisture resistance, and ease of maintenance.
What is the retaining ring on the DK diffuser and what is its purpose?
The retaining ring on the DK diffuser is a special polypropylene element that helps securely fix the diffuser in the ventilation system. Its main purpose is to simplify the installation and fastening of the diffuser to flexible air ducts and suspended ceilings, ensuring a tight and stable connection. This component makes installation easier and more reliable, and also simplifies maintenance by helping to hold parts in place.
Key functions of the DK diffuser retaining ring:
Provides secure fastening of the diffuser.
Simplifies installation with flexible air ducts.
Allows safe and strong attachment of the diffuser to the ceiling or wall.
The retaining ring is included in the delivery kit for DK series diffusers. The ring is made of polypropylene, which is resistant to wear and environmental influences. Diffusers with this ring are designed for supply and exhaust ventilation systems, providing even air distribution with simple installation and maintenance.
Key functions of the DK diffuser retaining ring:
Provides secure fastening of the diffuser.
Simplifies installation with flexible air ducts.
Allows safe and strong attachment of the diffuser to the ceiling or wall.
The retaining ring is included in the delivery kit for DK series diffusers. The ring is made of polypropylene, which is resistant to wear and environmental influences. Diffusers with this ring are designed for supply and exhaust ventilation systems, providing even air distribution with simple installation and maintenance.
How are the diffusers attached?
The DK diffuser is attached using a mounting flange and a retaining ring. For installation, first remove the front panel with the grille. Then secure the flange with screws at four points to the wall or suspended ceiling. Finally, snap the front panel with the grille onto the installed flange. The retaining ring makes it easier to attach the diffuser to flexible air ducts and ensures a secure installation, especially when fitting into Armstrong-type suspended ceilings.
Will a connector with a non-return valve work without a fan?
This component is designed for forced ventilation systems. Without a fan, it will most likely block your duct. If your goal is to improve existing natural draft and protect against backdraft, it is better to consider other options.
What is the factory default mode?
The default mode set by the manufacturer is recuperation with a duration of 70 seconds.
Will it work without the remote control?
Yes. The fan housing has a button that allows you to turn the recuperator on and off, but you cannot switch modes with this button.
When the device is turned off, it feels like an unsealed hole in the wall. How can I close the opening when recuperation is not needed?
When switched off, the recuperator acts as an open supply valve and does not block the airflow. To prevent the room from getting cold, you can turn the recuperator on to exhaust mode at minimum speed. In this case, outside air will not enter the room.
Can the CUPER recuperator be installed in a sauna (banya)?
Installation must comply with the requirements specified in the product manual. In particular, operating the recuperator outside its stated temperature range (from -30°C to +50°C) is prohibited. It is also important to note that the unit has an IP24 rating – protection against solid objects larger than 12.5 mm and protection against water splashes from any direction.
Can the recuperator be installed behind a curtain?
The recuperator is not recommended for installation behind a curtain, as obstacles in the airflow path can reduce the unit's performance. For efficient operation of the recuperator, unobstructed air movement must be ensured.
Will the recuperator work if it is installed near the ceiling, in a bathroom, or in a toilet?
Installation must comply with the requirements specified in the product manual. It is recommended to install the recuperator 20–30 cm from the window edge, at a height of 2–2.5 meters.
What wall thickness is required for installing the recuperator? If the wall is thinner, what can you offer?
The telescopic air duct allows length adjustment to suit wall thicknesses from 30 to 58 cm. If the wall is thinner than 30 cm, it is not possible to install this recuperator.
Can the recuperator be installed vertically?
No.
Can the heat exchanger be purchased separately?
No.
Are temperature sensors included in the kit?
The recuperator has one temperature sensor installed on the fan unit.
Do the manifolds have a condensate protection system?
Yes, the manifold design includes condensate collection to prevent moisture from entering the ventilation system.
What ventilation systems are CC series manifolds designed for?
CC series manifolds are suitable for round plastic ventilation systems with diameters of 100, 125, 150, and 160 mm.
Can the duct be installed in an unheated attic — won't the condensate freeze and burst the housing? Or is it only for heated spaces?
The plastic itself can be operated at temperatures from -40°C to +60°C. However, when water freezes, it expands. If condensate accumulates in a fitting and then freezes, the plastic part may become deformed or even crack. Plastic is less resistant to the mechanical stress caused by ice expansion, especially under repeated freeze‑thaw cycles.
Therefore, in cold, unheated spaces, it is recommended to:
Provide good ventilation to prevent condensate buildup.
Protect the system from moisture accumulation.
Insulate the air ducts or use thermal insulation materials to avoid mechanical damage to the fittings.
Therefore, in cold, unheated spaces, it is recommended to:
Provide good ventilation to prevent condensate buildup.
Protect the system from moisture accumulation.
Insulate the air ducts or use thermal insulation materials to avoid mechanical damage to the fittings.
Is PDP plastic light-resistant?
No, it may be affected by direct sunlight.
Can a cap (blanking plate) be used to regulate airflow?
No, a cap is a shut-off element, not a regulating one. It is designed to completely seal an opening. To regulate airflow, use throttle valves or adjustable grilles.
How do I select a cap (blanking plate) for a rectangular air duct?
Choose a cap that matches the cross-sectional dimensions (height and width) of the rectangular air duct. For example, a 120×60 mm duct requires a 120×60 mm cap.
How do I select a cap (blanking plate) for a round air duct?
Choose a cap whose nominal diameter matches the diameter of the air duct. For example, for an Ø100 mm duct, you need a D100 cap.
What material are the caps (blanking plates) made of?
PDP – plastic.
What are caps (blanking plates) used for in ventilation systems?
They help limit air loss during step‑by‑step duct installation and protect the system from dust, debris, and moisture during installation and repair work.
How do I select a bend (elbow) for my air duct?
Selection is based on the shape and size of your duct’s cross-section.
For round ducts – choose a bend with the same internal/external diameter (e.g., D100, D125).
For rectangular (flat) ducts – choose a bend with the matching cross-section (e.g., 55×110, 60×120, 60×204). Also pay attention to the orientation: there are both vertical and horizontal bends available for flat ducts
For round ducts – choose a bend with the same internal/external diameter (e.g., D100, D125).
For rectangular (flat) ducts – choose a bend with the matching cross-section (e.g., 55×110, 60×120, 60×204). Also pay attention to the orientation: there are both vertical and horizontal bends available for flat ducts
Is it necessary to apply sealant between plastic ventilation components, such as between an elbow and an air duct?
No, our products of matching diameters connect directly without the need for sealant.
What is a bend (elbow) and what is it used for?
A bend (or elbow) is a shaped component of a ventilation system used to change the direction of the air duct. It allows you to bypass obstacles or building structures and properly route the duct at the required angle.
How do I maintain the non-return valve?
Every 2–3 months, remove the valve and clean it of dust, dirt, and grease. Maintenance of the fan’s non-return valve includes the following key actions:
Regular inspection at least once a year. Make sure the dampers move freely and do not stick.
Cleaning. Gently wipe the plastic blades and housing with a damp cloth or use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment. If heavily soiled, remove the dampers and wash them with a degreasing agent.
Check the valve’s operation. The dampers should open under air pressure and close softly, sealing the duct tightly against reverse flow.
Replace if damaged. If dampers are badly contaminated or broken, replace the valve to prevent performance issues in the ventilation system.
Proper maintenance ensures long‑term, efficient operation of the non‑return valve, prevents odours, dust, and insects from entering through the duct, and maintains optimal draft. Maintenance is especially important in kitchens, bathrooms, and rooms with high humidity.
Regular inspection at least once a year. Make sure the dampers move freely and do not stick.
Cleaning. Gently wipe the plastic blades and housing with a damp cloth or use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment. If heavily soiled, remove the dampers and wash them with a degreasing agent.
Check the valve’s operation. The dampers should open under air pressure and close softly, sealing the duct tightly against reverse flow.
Replace if damaged. If dampers are badly contaminated or broken, replace the valve to prevent performance issues in the ventilation system.
Proper maintenance ensures long‑term, efficient operation of the non‑return valve, prevents odours, dust, and insects from entering through the duct, and maintains optimal draft. Maintenance is especially important in kitchens, bathrooms, and rooms with high humidity.
The non-return valve makes excessive noise. How can I fix it?
Excessive noise is usually caused by the damper striking against the housing, dirt buildup, or incorrect installation. To ensure quiet operation of the ventilation system, it is recommended to clean the valve, check all fasteners, use damping materials where possible, and replace the valve if it is worn out.
The non-return valve lets smells and smoke through. What can I do?
A non-return valve is designed to protect against backdraft — it stops reverse airflow from the shaft into the room. However, it is not a completely airtight device. If the room is not properly ventilated with outside air (i.e., there is no dedicated supply air intake), air — along with smells and smoke — may still seep through from the shaft.
To prevent smells and smoke from entering the room, you must provide the room with proper supply ventilation.
To prevent smells and smoke from entering the room, you must provide the room with proper supply ventilation.
The non-return valve does not open. What should I do?
If the fan's non-return valve does not open, possible causes and solutions are as follows:
Insufficient draft or weak airflow — the fan does not generate enough pressure to open the damper. Check the fan operation and the balance between supply and exhaust air.
The damper is dirty — dust or grease may be blocking its movement. Disassemble the valve, clean the damper and its mechanism.
The damper is damaged or deformed — mechanical damage can cause sticking. If damage is found, replace the valve.
Incorrect installation — for example, mounting horizontally when the design is intended for vertical use. Re‑install according to the instructions.
Imbalanced air volumes — if exhaust is working but supply is restricted, negative pressure may prevent the valve from opening.
External pressure issues — in apartment buildings, strong exhaust in neighbouring flats or a blocked ventilation shaft can interfere with normal valve operation.
Recommended actions:
Inspect, clean, and (if needed) lubricate the valve.
Verify that the fan works correctly and that the supply‑and‑exhaust ventilation is properly balanced.
If doubts remain, contact a qualified technician to diagnose and adjust the ventilation system.
For the valve to work reliably, you need a freely moving damper, sufficient fan draft, and a correctly installed ventilation system.
Insufficient draft or weak airflow — the fan does not generate enough pressure to open the damper. Check the fan operation and the balance between supply and exhaust air.
The damper is dirty — dust or grease may be blocking its movement. Disassemble the valve, clean the damper and its mechanism.
The damper is damaged or deformed — mechanical damage can cause sticking. If damage is found, replace the valve.
Incorrect installation — for example, mounting horizontally when the design is intended for vertical use. Re‑install according to the instructions.
Imbalanced air volumes — if exhaust is working but supply is restricted, negative pressure may prevent the valve from opening.
External pressure issues — in apartment buildings, strong exhaust in neighbouring flats or a blocked ventilation shaft can interfere with normal valve operation.
Recommended actions:
Inspect, clean, and (if needed) lubricate the valve.
Verify that the fan works correctly and that the supply‑and‑exhaust ventilation is properly balanced.
If doubts remain, contact a qualified technician to diagnose and adjust the ventilation system.
For the valve to work reliably, you need a freely moving damper, sufficient fan draft, and a correctly installed ventilation system.
Does the non-return valve stay securely in place?
Yes, the non-return valve sits tightly inside the fan housing. However, it is important to follow the installation instructions and keep the valve clean.
Does the non-return valve affect the performance of the unit?
A non-return valve does affect the performance of a ventilation unit, but with correct selection and installation its impact is minimal and barely noticeable.
The non-return valve creates additional resistance to the airflow because the moving damper must open as air passes through. This can slightly reduce the fan’s capacity.
When the valve is properly chosen for diameter and construction, the added resistance is minor; typically the unit’s airflow capacity decreases by 5–10%, which is not critical for system operation.
The valve prevents backdraft, retains heat, and improves indoor climate, offsetting the small loss in performance.
Compared to having no valve at all — where backdraft and air leakage can occur — correct valve installation lowers overall energy consumption and helps the ventilation system work more efficiently.
It is important that the valve size matches the duct size and the fan’s capacity to avoid excessive resistance.
The non-return valve creates additional resistance to the airflow because the moving damper must open as air passes through. This can slightly reduce the fan’s capacity.
When the valve is properly chosen for diameter and construction, the added resistance is minor; typically the unit’s airflow capacity decreases by 5–10%, which is not critical for system operation.
The valve prevents backdraft, retains heat, and improves indoor climate, offsetting the small loss in performance.
Compared to having no valve at all — where backdraft and air leakage can occur — correct valve installation lowers overall energy consumption and helps the ventilation system work more efficiently.
It is important that the valve size matches the duct size and the fan’s capacity to avoid excessive resistance.
Do I need to remove the non-return valve when installing the unit in the ceiling?
The non-return valve must be removed. When the fan is installed vertically (in the ceiling), the air pressure is insufficient to open the non-return valve.
How do I install a non-return valve into the fan?
A step-by-step instruction manual is included in the product package, making installation straightforward. The fan has mounting holes, while the valve comes with corresponding mounting elements.
Does the anemostat require maintenance?
Yes, anemostats require periodic maintenance. The tasks are minimal but essential for keeping the ventilation system efficient. The main goal is to remove dust and dirt that accumulate on the housing and internal surfaces, which can reduce performance and increase noise levels.
Brief maintenance plan:
Cleaning (recommended 1–2 times a year):
Carefully remove the adjustable disc (usually held by clips or a simple twist).
Wash the disc and the housing with warm soapy water or clean them with a vacuum cleaner.
Allow all parts to dry before reassembly.
Inspection (during cleaning):
Make sure the adjustment mechanism (the rotating disc) moves smoothly without jamming.
Check for any mechanical damage to the housing or the disc.
Regular cleaning of the anemostat is a quick and simple procedure that ensures clean air, quiet operation, and long‑lasting efficiency of your ventilation system.
Brief maintenance plan:
Cleaning (recommended 1–2 times a year):
Carefully remove the adjustable disc (usually held by clips or a simple twist).
Wash the disc and the housing with warm soapy water or clean them with a vacuum cleaner.
Allow all parts to dry before reassembly.
Inspection (during cleaning):
Make sure the adjustment mechanism (the rotating disc) moves smoothly without jamming.
Check for any mechanical damage to the housing or the disc.
Regular cleaning of the anemostat is a quick and simple procedure that ensures clean air, quiet operation, and long‑lasting efficiency of your ventilation system.
How do you install an anemostat?
Installation is typically carried out using self-tapping screws through the mounting flange, allowing the anemostat to be easily attached to a wall, ceiling, or air duct. A threaded spindle is included for adjusting the required airflow. To ensure correct installation, follow the instructions, choose the mounting location carefully, and provide a tight seal with the ventilation system.
Installation steps:
Prepare the mounting location. Choose a suitable position on the wall, ceiling, or duct. Make sure the opening matches the installation diameter of the anemostat (e.g., 100 mm, 125 mm, etc.).
Secure the anemostat. If the anemostat has a mounting flange, place it against the opening and fasten it to the surface using self-tapping screws.
Adjust the airflow. Rotate the central section (the damper) to regulate the volume of passing air. The adjustment is smooth, thanks to a coarse‑threaded spindle, ensuring easy and reliable setting.
Check the installation. Verify that the anemostat is firmly fixed and does not vibrate when the ventilation system is running. Ensure a tight fit and proper air throw direction. During operation, repeat cleaning and adjustment as needed.
Installation steps:
Prepare the mounting location. Choose a suitable position on the wall, ceiling, or duct. Make sure the opening matches the installation diameter of the anemostat (e.g., 100 mm, 125 mm, etc.).
Secure the anemostat. If the anemostat has a mounting flange, place it against the opening and fasten it to the surface using self-tapping screws.
Adjust the airflow. Rotate the central section (the damper) to regulate the volume of passing air. The adjustment is smooth, thanks to a coarse‑threaded spindle, ensuring easy and reliable setting.
Check the installation. Verify that the anemostat is firmly fixed and does not vibrate when the ventilation system is running. Ensure a tight fit and proper air throw direction. During operation, repeat cleaning and adjustment as needed.
Why might an anemostat start to rattle or make noise?
An anemostat may start to rattle or make noise for several reasons:
Incorrect installation or loose fasteners, causing vibration during fan operation.
Excessively high airflow velocity or improper duct design.
Accumulation of dust and dirt, which obstructs airflow and creates noise.
Deformation or damage to components, leading to unstable air movement.
Vibrations transmitted from ventilation equipment when effective vibration isolation is missing.
To eliminate noise, check the fasteners, clean the anemostat, improve vibration damping if needed, and ensure the airflow velocity is within the appropriate range.
Incorrect installation or loose fasteners, causing vibration during fan operation.
Excessively high airflow velocity or improper duct design.
Accumulation of dust and dirt, which obstructs airflow and creates noise.
Deformation or damage to components, leading to unstable air movement.
Vibrations transmitted from ventilation equipment when effective vibration isolation is missing.
To eliminate noise, check the fasteners, clean the anemostat, improve vibration damping if needed, and ensure the airflow velocity is within the appropriate range.
Can the airflow through an anemostat be regulated?
Yes, by turning the central disc clockwise to reduce the airflow or counterclockwise to increase it. The adjustment is smooth and reliable.